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Guide — hose sizing

Hydraulic hose sizes, explained

Every hydraulic hose carries its size in a simple code. Here's how dash numbers work, why inside diameter matters, and how to read the layline before ordering a replacement.

The sixteenths system

Dash numbers are sixteenths of an inch

Hydraulic hose size is almost always written as a dash number — -4, -6, -8 and so on. The number is the hose's inside diameter in sixteenths of an inch: a -4 hose is 4/16, or 1/4 inch ID; a -8 is 1/2 inch; a -16 is a full inch. The same convention covers tube and many fittings, so a parts counter asks for "a dash eight," not a fraction.

The measurement is the inside diameter. OD changes with the reinforcement, so two hoses with the same dash size can have different ODs — when in doubt, size from the inside.

-4 · 1/4 in ID

Small lines — pilot circuits, gauge lines and case drains.

-6 · 3/8 in ID

The everyday ag size — remotes, loader circuits, small cylinders.

-8 · 1/2 in ID

Mid-size work: backhoe circuits, wet kits, attachment lines.

-12 · 3/4 in ID

Bigger flows — main circuits and higher-volume pump lines.

-16 · 1 in ID

Large supply and return lines on excavators and cranes.

The in-between sizes

-5, -10, -20, -24 and -32 exist too — same math, divide by sixteen for the ID in inches.

Flow, velocity, heat

Why inside diameter matters

A hydraulic circuit is built to move a set flow of oil. Squeeze that flow through a smaller hose and the fluid speeds up — more friction, more turbulence, more pressure drop, all of it turning into heat. Heat is hard on oil and seals, and it quietly steals engine power.

Going bigger isn't a free upgrade: an oversized hose is heavier, stiffer and often won't route through the original clamps, and it still necks down to the same ports. As a rule, the right replacement is the size the machine came with.

The jump between sizes is bigger than it sounds, because flow area grows with the square of the diameter — stepping from a -4 to a -6 more than doubles the area. "Close enough" isn't a sizing strategy.

1/16"Of inside diameter per dash number
2×+Flow-area jump from -4 to -6
Printed on the hose

Reading the layline

The layline is the printed stripe running the length of the hose — the closest thing a hose has to a spec sheet. Formats vary by manufacturer, but a legible layline typically shows:

Manufacturer and hose series or part number
Dash size, often with the ID in inches or millimeters
A standard it meets — SAE, EN or ISO designations
Rated working pressure for that hose at that size

The printed rating applies to that hose in that size — ratings vary by manufacturer and series, so the layline and manufacturer spec are always the authority. If a hose has already let go, our guide on what to do after a blown hose covers the safe first steps.

What's under the cover

1-wire, 2-wire, 4-wire and spiral

Between the inner tube and cover sits the reinforcement — the "wire" shorthand. In plain terms, more reinforcement generally means higher pressure tolerance, but the printed rating, not the wire count, is what you trust.

1-wire braid

A single braided layer — lighter, more flexible, generally on lower-pressure and return lines.

2-wire braid

Two braided layers — the workhorse construction on most mobile equipment.

4- & 6-wire spiral

Spiral-wrapped layers instead of a braid — stiffer, tougher, built for high-impulse circuits on excavators and big iron.

Within the same series, rated pressure typically drops as diameter goes up, so a small 2-wire may out-rate a large one. Never assume a rating from construction alone — check the layline or manufacturer chart and match what the machine calls for.

The other dimension

Measuring length: cut length vs overall

Size is half of a hose order — length is the other half, with two numbers in play. Cut length is the hose alone, before fittings go on. Overall length is the finished assembly, end to end, fittings included. Where exactly an angled fitting gets measured from varies between shops, so the safest reference is the old assembly itself:

  1. Measure the old assembly end to end Lay it as straight as it allows and measure fitting tip to fitting tip. Note whether it ran tight or with slack.
  2. Identify both ends Ends matter as much as the hose — our guide on how to identify hydraulic fittings covers JIC, ORFS, flange and metric.
  3. Note angles and routing If either end is a 45 or 90, note which way it points relative to the other end — orientation is part of the build.
Around Kern County

What we typically see in the field

Every machine is its own spec, so treat these as patterns, not rules — the layline always wins. Still, the same shapes repeat:

Ag tractors & implements

Farm equipment around Delano and Shafter tends to run mid-size braided hose — remotes and implement lines commonly land around -6 to -8, though big iron goes heavier.

Excavators & earthmoving

Boom, stick and bucket circuits typically call for spiral hose in the larger sizes, with small pilot lines at the joysticks — one machine mixes several sizes.

Oilfield equipment

The westside leases around Taft are hard on hoses — heat, sun and vibration wear the layline fast. Sizes vary widely by unit, so we identify at the machine.

Whatever the machine, we measure the old hose, match ID, rating, length and ends, and build the replacement on-site. See what we fix for the full list.

Common questions

Hose sizing FAQ

How do I find out what size hose I have?
Check the layline — it usually lists the dash size along with the series and standard. If it is legible, that is your answer. If not, measure the inside diameter of a cut end, or text photos of both fittings to (661) 555-0148 and we can usually identify it before the truck rolls.
Does a replacement hose have to match the original exactly?
On inside diameter and pressure rating, yes — match or meet the original spec, never fall below it. Length and fitting ends need to match closely too, so the hose routes without stretching or rubbing. Brand can differ; spec should not. When we build on-site, we match against the old assembly at the machine.
What if the layline is worn off?
It happens constantly — laylines fade with sun, heat and abrasion. Do not guess from the outside diameter; hoses with different reinforcement can share an OD while carrying very different ratings. We measure and identify at the machine: the cut end gives the true inside diameter, and the fittings and machine spec fill in the rest.
Is going up a size ever a good idea?
Generally, no — stay with the size the machine was designed around. A smaller ID forces the fluid to speed up and build heat; a larger one rarely routes or terminates cleanly. If a hose keeps failing, the cause is usually routing, abrasion or the wrong construction, not the size. Check the machine's spec, or ask us on-site.
Not sure what size you've got?

We measure and match at the machine

Call dispatch, tell us what let go and where the machine sits — we'll identify, build and crimp the right hose on-site.

Dispatch — 24/7
(661) 555-0148
Text photos of the hose ends to the same number
Serving Bakersfield & all of Kern County